Ulun Danu Temple

Ulun Danu temple is one of the most popular tour visit when a sight seeing tour is organized to visit Bedugul Mountain resort or Singaraja tour. The location is on the west bank of lake Beratan. The name Ulun Danu, literally means " the beginning of the lake" But this might not to claim that the site is the beginning of a lake. It tends to indicate that everything that exists around the lake will have the orientation to the temple site, and cleanliness around the area must be continuously kept.

The whole complex is consist of 4 units each dedicated to spirit of Lingga Petak, and shrines to worship god. It looks that the temple symbolizes the nature of surrounding as the respects of nature greatness, since the location is surrounded by peaks of Bali mountain chain such as the east is Mt. Mangu, to the south is Mt. Teratai Bang, and to the west is Mt. Pohan.

Current pavilions, shrines and basements at the site looks to have been newly renovated and no historical facts can be used to trace the history of the temple. The only source to disclose the history of the temple is a chronicle of Mengwi kingdom, a manuscript now available in transliteration from Balinese characters to Latin at Bali Museum, in Denpasar. It is written that I Gusti Agung Putu was defeated during the battle and became war detainment of Tabanan kingdom. The vassal of Marga implored the king to bring I Gusti Agung Putu to Marga village, and from here he set the strategy to gain back his lost land. He went up to Mount Mangu peak to meditate and request the inspiration. Returning from that he went back to Marga and built his palace at Balahayu ( now : Blayu village ).

During the war between kingdom of Tabanan and Penebel, the brother of I Gusti Agung Putu succeeded in helping Tabanan to win the battle. With this victory king of Tabanan gave I Gusti Agung Putu the vassal area of Marga. This young warrior continued to subdue his rival. To his success he built the temple dedicated for praying to the God giving the power to the peak of Mount Mangu. It is mentioned that the construction of Taman Ayun temple is just after the construction of Ulun Danu temple. While the date of construction of Taman Ayun is recorded with chronogram reads " Sad Bhuta Yaksa Deva " = Caka 1556 or 1634 AD. We can use this date as the approximation of the construction of Ulun Danu temple.
Temple Structure

    The Shrine of Lingga Petak It is a meru - 3 superimposed roofs shrine - located at the most eastern side, reachable by canoe. The shrine has 4 doors for 4 directions. According to the record the shrine was renovated in 1968, and in the foundation were found 3 long round stones each had red, white, and black color. The white stone was in the middle and was believed to be a " lingga " the symbol of god Shiva. It is very probable that this temple got the name from the white lingga ( Petak means white ). Until now the local religious leader still dedicate this temple as the worship of Shiwa. It is also called " the abode of Ulun Danu god " as the symbol of fertility. It is already known that the Shiwa - Lingga devotee put strong emphasize on the worship of fertility ( influence of Tantric school ). At most ancient sites found to preserve this symbol it is normally consist of 2 parts. The base and the round up-right stone. The base is called " Yoni " and the up-right is called " lingga ". This thought was probably inspired by the atheistic thinking of Shamkya philosophy about the creation or as mentioned above from Trantric school. That is the meeting between " Purusa " or the male element with the "Pradhana " the female element will result the creation. The distribution of this thought in Bali was almost all over the island. This is the prove that Shivaitic sectarianism had wide followers. The practice of this sect later influenced very much by the practice of Tantrayana, a left hand path of Buddhism.
    The Shrines for temporary abode of god in Mount Mangu The location is just on he west side of Lingga Petak, reachable by wooden bridge. The shrines are a11-superimposed merus. Who was considered to abode Mt. Mangu? This is a story from a manuscript called " Babad Usana Bali" on which various directions in Bali with the temple name and the above are mentioned. Mount Mangu is mentioned as the abode of the power of Wisnu or Dewi Danu. It is hard to understand why for the god Wishnu the shrine is bigger while at that time Shiwa-Lingga was preponderant.
    Shrines of Teratai Bang It is also called Pura Penataran Agung. This complex is consist of 3 yards as the common structure of temple in Bali. Here 22 shrines and pavilions standing for various dedication. From the name of spirits worshipped here there are very clear the mixed spirits between ancestor's spirits and the worship of the god power. Local ritual leaders consider that the main shrine is the 7-roofed meru as the abode of god Brahma.
    Pura Dalem Purwa, the complex has 3 pavilions for worshipping the power of god Shiwa in the form of Bhagawati goddess, the symbol of wealthiness.

The maintenance of the temple is the responsibility of 4 groups which are consists of villages. The group is called " Satakan " There are 4 satakans who responsible for are :
Satakan Banga
Satakan Baturiti
Satakan Mayungan
Satakan Candi Kuning

The member of the worship group called "penyiwi" is consists of royal family which was in the past vassal of Mengwi kingdom such as Marga, Blayu, Perean, and Mengwi itself. The rest is the whole irrigation organization using the rivers flowing within the area of Baturiti until Mayungan area up to the northern area of Badung regency. From this fact it is very clear that, lake Beratan is considered the heart of irrigation and rice life in the region.

Temple Ceremony
There are 5 kinds of regular ceremonies carried out in the temple every year. The fixed schedule can be read in Balinese calendar since this is based on Balinese dates which can only be known in November for the following year.

One strange ritual is what it calls " Pekelem " means " sacrifice to be sunk " The sacrifice is consists of animals, must be young, such as chicken, pig, buffalo and duck. Each animal is dressed with white cloth or black for pig and buffalo, legs given accessories of Chinese coins or gold. Followed with complicated palm leave decorated offerings, intricate cookies and incense burners the animals are sunk to the lake. This pakelem ritual is not regular but based on special occasion when the situation of life is considered not normal such as the spread of epidemic, flooding, earthquake causing causalities, draught, and many other social and natural catastrophes.

All the fixed schedule can be known during November every year for the next year rituals. It is normally by October Balinese calendar has been issued and can be found in the shops. One thing will also affect the materialization of the ceremony is the local tradition, which is different for every area in Bali. Some villages have the regulation that when one member of the village is dead prior to the ceremony, let's say 3 days or before ceremony, usually the ceremony will be cancelled, and will be performed for the next schedule.

Kintamani one way closer to the nature

Kintamani is a small town located on the west rim of Batur crater which length is around 3 km starting from the village of Panelokan to the border of north Kintamani with Panulisan area. Kintamani town itself is 57 km from Denpasar city, 65 kms from Kuta, 80 km from Nusa Dua area. So far what is known as Kintamani is actually consist of 3 villages these are Panelokan, Batur, and Kintmani. Sightseeing tour to Kintamani will stop at Panelokan, the southernmost of west crater rim. There are many restaurant on the right and left sides of the road starting from Panelokan northward up to the southern part of Kintmani town. Tour program do not stop at Kintamani town, as it is only a town with usual market. From Panelokan downward across lake Batur is the old village of Trunyan which is known for it's unique burial tradition. Kintamani and its' surrounding such as various villages both below on the bank of the lake such as Kedisan, Trunyan, Songan, and at the Northern part such as Bayung, Balingkang, and to the far west such as Blantih are already exist since AD 900. Many Balinese king charters mentioned the villages and the obligations of its' people. But Kintamani 1100 years ago was named Cintamani, and Songan called Air Tabar. This is especially the village of Trunyan mentioned in many inscription to have been maintaining a temple and symbol called Bhatara Da Tonta, and the fact that Bhatara Da Tonta can still be seen at the temple belong to Trunyan village, a wooden simple statue preserved in a small pavilion, can not be seen everyday, except during the temple ceremony. As the prove that Kintmanai and its surrounding has been attracting people from very ancient time below are king record :
When tourism started to develop in Bali around 1965 one tour package called " Barong dance and Kintamani tour " was the most popular day sightseeing. The highlight of the tour which is until now still exist are Bali artist's colonies, Tirta Empul Temple, and Batur Caldera. According to some senior tour guides who have been working in the industry for more than 2 decades some tourists from Europe and U.S.A regularly come to Bali, for more than 5 times since 1960s and every times they come they always repeat to see this tour package. It might be the real spirit of Balinese nature and culture are mixed here which can give various inspirations, probably from business of small handicrafts until 5 stars hotels or restaurants for those who saw this as an opportunity. This has been proved by the tremendous development of tourism facilities in Bali from 1980s to 1995. The writer believe very much that what is the value of this trip has been triggering other area of Bali to be known in tourism industry. Below is described shortly how these 3 areas had been attracting people from immemorial times.

Kintamani and Batur Caldera. Kintamani are with it's magnificent view of Batur caldera have been recorded on king's charter's as follows:

    Inscription dated 911 AD, mention about the king envoys to pray at Trunyan village, the local people were asked to serve the envoys to prepare the meals and facilities during this religious trip. The people requested to his majesty to be exempted from certain taxes in lieu to the services rendered to the philgramage.
    Inscription dated 911 AD, the regulation for village member between Abang village and Trunyan village was issued by the king to protect their interest.
    Three inscriptions found at Kintamani dated 967 AD mentions a lodging ( pesangrahan ) at Air Mih, licensed by the king Tabanendra Dharmadewa. Here is mentioned also the influx or might be traffic of priests ( bhiksu ) that came to that area and wanted to settle. It was regulated that the new comers must not exceeding 10 families
    Just around 1 km north to Kintamani have found various stone sculptures carved in 1011 AD by master sculptor " Mpu Bga", dedicated to the king and ancestor's spirits

It is a prove that Kintamani area is the oldest area to have been recorded in history of Bali. It was probably due to it's very inspiring natural scenery and magical view. One of famous Indonesian novelists Sutan Takdir Alisyahbana also built his lodging on the foot of Mount Batur, where he produced many litteraire creations in the form of romance or novels.

Interest of Kintamani
As already mentioned above that the the name of Kintamani is often refer places such as Panelokan, villages around Batur lake, and Kintamani town itself. The crater of Batur is the central interest of the place which is estimated to have 13 square km size. The main interest of this area is the beautiful panorama of nature. In Indonesia there are only 2 places claimed to have the most beautiful vista. One is here in Kintamani dan second is Lake Toba in North Sumatra with it's island in the lake called Samosir island.

Panelokan
Penelokan is a vantage point at the southernmost of the crater rim. There is no traditional village on this area, but it was the people from Batur and Kintamani started to build small restaurants and art shop during 1970s to offer the visitors with tour break for snack or lunches. Later big restaurant and hotels were also constructed on the area including many souvenir shops. From Panelokan is the best view one can find over the crater and the active mount Batur. Lake Batur which lies far below the crater looks very beautiful with blue water color enclosed by massive wall of mountain such as mount Abang ridge and Mount Panulisan on the north, while in the middle is active Mount Batur. Mount Agung can also bee seen far away in the east. From Panelokan is the road downward to reach the villages below on the bank of the lake such as Kedisan, Trunyan and Songan. Big restaurants can be found in Panelokan is Lake View restaurant, Maharaja Restaurant, Gunawan Restaurant, Batur Restaurant, and many small restaurant serving a la carte menu. Good place to park the car is also located here. Tour program visiting Kintamani area will stop here to enjoy the breathtaking view of the panorama, then continue to upper area where again many restaurants can be found to have meals or lunch.

Lake and Mount Batur
Lake Batur which is estimated 10 square km has always been attracting people to live around its' bank. This is proved by the inscriptions mentioned above, despite the deadly explosion of Mount Batur in 1963, the people around it have been insisted to live there. Kedisan, Songan and Trunyan villages are believed as the oldest residents of Bali which is the same as Toraja and Batak people. In some aspects the have the same similarity in their basic words to mention objects close to daily life. But in term of ritual they are closer to Batak village, while the Toraja is closer to current Balinese on lowland which is bound to deep by rituals, people around Batur lake do not bound by such a complicated ritual. Their daily life is much depend on the fishing and cultivation of onion, corn, and vegetable. They are not able to grow rice as their land is not favorable for it beside the structure and topography of the land is very difficult, elevating to sharp. They speak Balinese, although subtle difference can still be heard such as the intonation and shifting of meaning. People of Songan village pronounce the strongest and a very distinct pronunciation which makes other Balinese laughing. But in general can be said that Balinese say / e / at the end of their word, while these people say / a /. Balinese in general pronounce a word plainly, while they giving strong emphasize on syllable, so if a word consist of 2 syllables there will be 2 different sound, and if a word consist of 3 syllables then they give 3 different sound. For adventourous, Mount Batur trekking for 4 hours is very popular starting early morning around 4 am.

Trunyan Village
Trunyan village can be reached from Kedisan or west bank of the lake only by boat. Today there are dozens of motorized boats stand by at the pier of Kedisan. A boat can transport 6 people crossing the lake 45 minutes from the pier to Trunyan village. On an inscription issued by one of Balinese king mentioned the name of Trunyan Village as Turunan meaning descendant. As the people of Trunyan believed that they were originated from the mountain on the back side of the ridge and Bhatara Da Tonta was the god who generated them, so they called themselves as " descendant of Bhatara Da Tonta " The location of the village is just on the narrow land between the lake and steep drop of southern crater wall which elevates around 75 degrees, even more at some places. Yet the people of Trunyan is familiar with this steep region and laid out paths to reach their farming area on the side of the wall. Like other Balinese at the lowland, they also have cemetery, but not one or two, there are 3 cemeteries. One is normal cemetery for those who died normally, due to the age, second cemetery is for those who died abnormally such as accidents, strange disease, and others, and the 3rd cemetery is for infants. The corp is not buried or cremated, but just laid down on a spot of land enclosed with bamboo fence wrapped with cloth or pandanus math. To bring the died to the cemetery the people using canoe as there is no road or path can be laid out on the steep drop of the wall. It is strange that the decaying corp does not spread bad smell. The people believed that big tree grows on the cemetery absorbed the bad smell, so people could not sense it.

Pucak Panulisan
Pucak Panulisan or known also as Gunung Panulisan is a temple erected on the top of a high hill north of Kintamani town. To reach the top of the hill from the main road it is ascending around 300 steps. The current temple on the top of the hill is probably not soo old, but the stone sculptures that are collected on the temple are really having great value to the history of Bali. Some of the sculptures bearing the dates of its creation. The oldest are a couple of spouses with the date of AD 1011 mentioned the artist named Empu Bga. It is believed that the couple is representing the famous king of Bali with his wife, the Majesty King Udayana with Princess Mahendra Datta. See from the style of the sculptures, it seems that not all of them originated from the same dates, there are some quiet late and it is believed also that all of them do not from the same site, and as the character of Balinese it is usual to preserve the old heritages of art in a temple. Closet to the site of this temple is found a strange temple called the Temple of Balingkang. This temple is assumed to have relation with Chinese of Chung Dynasty. This vague relation is mentioned on a manuscript that Balinese king married Chinese Princess which is now symbolized with the dance of Barong Landung or tall Barong. The female Barong is made in white color showing visage of Chinese and the male barong in black color. If we see from the word Balingkang it is no doubt that the word come from Bali + kan meaning king of Bali. The fact that the resident of Kintamani are in big part are Chinese second no one in oldness of period to other part of Bali. Most of the Chinese in Bali trace their origin in Kintamani. It might be assumed that the first Chinese society in Bali must be around Kintamani or probably around what is now known as Balingkang. Archaeologists thought that the king of Bali who married Chinse was Sri Asta Sura Ratna Bumi Banten, whose charter was found around the area with the date of 1265 AD and is most probably the last king of ancient Bali before it was annexed by the kingdom of Majapahit of Java, and who ironically described as king Bedahulu in the story written after the rule of Majapahit known as the manuscript of Usana Jawa.

Pura Besakih Bali's Mother Temple

Bali's Mother Temple "Pura Besakih" the largest temple in Bali, is over 900 meters up the slopes of Gunung Agunng. It has been regarded as a holy place since pre-historic times in Bali. The first recorded mention of its existence is from an inscription of the fifteenth century it has been regarded as a central, holy temple for the entire island.

All the allegiance of the Balinese people comes together at Besakih Temple. Each regency has its own temple within the over-all compound, as do each of the caste groups. There is a total of 18 separate sanctuaries. The three main temple are : Pura Penataran Agung, dedicated to Sang Hyang Widi Wasa : Pura Kiduling Kreteg, dedicated to Brahma; and Pura Batu Madeg, dedicated to Wisnu.
To the Balinese a visit to the temple sanctuaries at Besakih is a special pilgrimage. Each temple has its own Odalan, or anniversary celebration, and on the full moon of the Balinese month "Kedasa" the entire compound of Besakih celebrates the visit of the gods, with an enormous throng of visiting pilgrims.

Pura Besakih , the holiest of all temples in Bali. It origated most probably as a prehistoric terraced santuary where worship andoffering were made to the God of Gunung Agung, the dominant landscape element in the Balinese world. Over a thousand years and more, it was enlarged and added to until grew into the present complex of about 30 temples. In the 10th century it was apparently a state temple. According to inscriptions kept here, an important event took place in the year 1007. If can only be quessed that this was associated with death rituals for queen Mahendradratta, Udayana's Co-ruler who died yhe previous year. Since the 15th century it was the state temple of the Gelgel - Klungkung dynasty which built a series of small templs inhonor of its deifie rulers. Now is the state temple for the provincial and national governments which meet all expenses. Today, Pura Besakih is revered by al Balinese as the "Mother Temple" Of Bali.

Within the Besakih complex, the paramount sanctuary is the Pura Penataran Agung which rears is lofty merus on a high bank of terraces. Steps ascend in along perspective to the austere split gate. Insede the main courtyard stands the three-seated shrine enthronigh the Trisakti, the trinity of Brahma, Visnu and Siwa. During festivan the shrines are wrapped in colored cloth sybolic of the deities. The Pura Penataran Agung And two other important temples higher up the slopes likewise together symbolize theTrisakti. In the center Pura Penataran Agung is hugh with white banners for Siwa : to the right, Pura Kiduling Kreteg with red banners for Brahma: and Pura Batu Madeg, to the left, with balck banners for visnu. These letter two temples are taken care of by the Karangasem and Bangli regencies respectively, certain othr being the responsibility of the other regencies. All of Bali comes thogether at Pura Besakih. Relegiosly. oness is symbolized in the padmasana in Pura Pentaran Agung, dedicated to Sang Hyang Widdhi Wasa, in the Supreme God.

Shining and Glowing from Celuk Village

Desa Mas is belong to the administrative area of Kecamatan Sukawati, Kabupaten Gianyar, 8 km away from Denpasar city, 23 km from Kuta and 38 km from Nusa Dua area. Desa Celuk is bordering with Desa Batubulan which is known for it's stone carving and stages of Barong dances. This location is on the way of the leading road from Denpasar to Ubud or to Gianyar and within the tour itinerary both Batubulan and Celuk usually two places never absent on the tour itinerary. Just after the visit of Barong dance at one of the stages at Batubulan visiting the work of silver and gold accessories at one of the artist's exhibition house or art shops. Many guests protested the itinerary which mentioned Celuk as a village and they said is a town. That is the situation of Celuk today, that the view is a real small town with bustling life of artists and their activities. Most of gold and silver production at Celuk has been oriented to the export with proud exhibition halls at each of the gallery that line up on the left and right sides of the main road of Celuk. Desa Celuk is bordering directly with Desa Sukawati, where the head of Kecamatan administrative office is located, and Desa Singapadu beside Batubulan. Desa Singapadu is strongly influenced by the main activities of the people at Celuk and now become the only competitor of Celuk in the production of gold and silver products.

Interest of Desa Celuk
As already publicated on many brochures or writing about Bali and its tourism, Celuk must have been well known in all countries, that the main interest of this town is their production of specific accessories made of gold and silver. Many people asking when it was started that the people of Celuk produced such accessories? This question can not be answered sufficiently, since what people in Bali know about Celuk in the past was the place where people making bowls for religious ceremony in silver leave called " bokoran " This type of bowl is ony used for activities of religious or ritual relating to the tradition. Suddenly in 1930s the first reported gold and silversmith was in Celuk, and travelers who visited Bali during that time explored the interesting places of Bali including the village. And late 1990s the number of art galleries and unit of gold and silversmiths were increasing in big numbers followed by the mass production of various designs of decorative art, accessories and others. The growing popularity of Celuk as the stop of sightseeing itinerary giving favorable condition for the birth of many exporters to various contries in the world. This international trade of gold and silver products from Celuk even made the name of the previously known village become well known world wide. During the periode from 1980 to 1990 was heard that almost every families in the village engaged in the work of silver and gold leaving the rice field and cattle un-managed. The birth of big art shops working with local tour operators and or importers from various countries has been encouraged the families to follow the step and tried to deal with foreighners without knowing the requirement of international trade, only based on trust and good smile of new buyers. As a result many producers felt into bangkruftcy due to the unpaid shipment or sales. The discussion of writer to many families at Celuk and Singapadu in 1995 disclosed that actually the number of producers being cheated by their overseas partners were surprisingly high. The value of their shipment un-paid varied between Rp 5.000.000 to Rp 30.000.000 at the time, and compared to the value of money today it can mean hundred of millions. It is not ethical to mentioned here what the nationality of the buyers who cheated them, but for the families in Celuk it was a traumatic experience causing them to sell everything they had to cover their labour and material costs, even their own costs. The art galleries that line up reaching Batubulan, along 2 kms to reach the orignal village of Celuk in the east was the luckiest among them, because they worked with local inbound tour operator, preparing the visitors with various product of gold and silvers, sell based on retail and cash. So, they enjoy better conditon of sales compared to those who tried to look for short cut to sell directly to foreign importers. There are many big exporters who knew better the detail of international trade with showrooms at bigger cities such as Kuta, Nusa Dua or Denpasar. They had more detail information on how to manage the shipment and get them paid through international methodes, get security for both importers and exporters.

Influence of Flourishing Celuk Gold and Silver
Celuk is the inspirator of the growth of silver and gold product not only in Bali but also in Yogyakarta, especially in Kota Gede. Art galleries, and exporters in Bali sell as much as the gold and silver products that made in Bali and in Yogyakarta. Even in most cases such as in Singapadu and bigger town such as Kuta and Denpasar the product of Yogyakarta even bigger then what were produced in Bali. This is due to their technic of production is better and their design was more varied compared to their counterparts in Bali. That was why the great number of shipment from Yogyakarta comes every week to Bali, especially to Celuk, Denpasar and Kuta. Since Yogyakarta also developed production, most of travelers visited directly the production in Yogyakarta, but they brought the product to Bali before shipment to their countries to the reason that they will be easier in co-ordinating the shipment and the administration, beside the frequency of flight from Bali to abroad that that time was far much bigger compared from Yogyakarta. It can be said that the growth of gold and silver production both in Celuk and Yogyakata has been going parallel, giving great advantage to big number of informal workers, absorbed big nubmer of less skill workers and house-wives, and even children can take part-time among their school time. During the era of 1980 to 1990s, in Celuk almost no child roaming on the road, and also writer heard in Kota Gede Yogyakarta, as they were participating in family working. But this situation was totally changed after Islamic Jihad blew bom in Kuta, known as Bali bom I in 2002. All production in Celuk and Singapadu step by step taking rest, and shipment from Yogyakarta also slow but firmly dropping into the zero level and totally stop after Bali bom II in 2005. The learning of Islamic jihad is very well know how to kill the economy of people in Yogyakarta and Bali, especially Kota Gede with their silver and gold accessories and decorations.

Type of Gold and Siver Product
The most important product of gold and silver are women accessories such as earings, bracelets, broces, noodles, pins, bottons, wall decors and sitting decor for table, pandles, frames, vases,
watches, and many others more then a hundreds designs were ever recorded at one of the show room in Celuk. The designs were purely developped by local artists both in Bali and in Yogyakarta, only few of them brought from overseas, since the character of silver and gold products from overseas were really hard to be produced in Bali or Yogyakarta, due to the precision methode and consistency of elements. The main interest of the local product just relaid on the uniqueness of the products and the low prices tagged to their individual products.

Sidemen, Dont cry for its beauty!!

Located on the slope of Mount Agung, 1,400 above sea level Sidemen village is blessed with beautiful panorama, cool climate and rich cultural heritage. Sidemen Village part of Karangasem Regency and inhabited by more than 7,000 people, most of them are farmer. Sidemen village stretch over three separate river valleys and surrounded by hills, most of its area is a paddy fields that give beautiful terraced-rice-field view. The layout of the village is also unique. The house area is located at the right side of the road, and the rice field area on left side. The area is famous for stunning scenery, and a simple, traditional way of life. Sidemen village has produced masters of Balinese literature and Hindu theology, as well as generations of skillful weavers.

Sidemen village also houses many temples of Hindu Bali that worth a visit. Sidemen is a good place for romantic gateway and retreat, it is far away from hustle and bustle of city life around one-and half-hour drive from the Ngurah Rai international airport and there are also several meditation and retreat centers here. Many tourist, painter, and student from around the world have come to this village every year. Sixty years ago, the renowned painter Walter Spies moved from Ubud to the Sidemen area to seek peace and inspiration. He felt that Ubud had already become too crowded. In Sidemen he found his peace and inspiration.

Ubud: Beyond Eat, Pray, Love

It’s impossible these days to think about Ubud - Bali's cultural heart - without also considering the enormous success of Elizabeth Gilbert’s Eat, Pray, Love. While you’ll find no shortage of local travel companies promoting EPL ‘experiences’, there’s more to Ubud than spirituality, rice paddies and fortune telling medicine men.

Unless you have the luxury of endless time, you might find that a trip to Bali can only include a few days in Ubud. For that purpose, here are some handy suggestions for activities during a four day stay in this breathtaking location.
Getting there and settling in:

If travelling directly from the airport, make sure you use an official metered cab. A one-way trip to Ubud will cost around 100,000Rp and will drop you straight to your hotel or guest house. There is no shortage of these around, with many nestled right in the midst of rice paddies. Nick’s Pension is a popular choice, with reasonable rates. If you’re after a little more seclusion and some killer views, I like Villa Indah. It’s a little pricier than a homestay, but with significantly more privacy and a small staff on hand 24 hours a day.

Getting the feel of the place

The most touristy part of Ubud can be found at Monkey Forest Rd, where touts and hawkers line the streets offering transport or entry into their stores. While it can get a little overwhelming, the best thing to do is relax – most people are just trying to make a living, and they’ll leave you alone if you politely refuse their offers. Remember that the first sale of the day is considered lucky, so salespeople will be more willing to give you the best price. Don’t blow your shopping fund on the first day though – while the lure of a giant wooden penis bottle opener might seem too great to ignore, remember that you’ll have to declare it at customs. Besides, you’re bound to find a better price somewhere else…

Head to the Sacred Monkey Forest at the end of Monkey Forest Rd. A lush jungle sanctuary, the forest is full of cheeky little macaques all vying for your attention (and food). Be warned that they WILL come after any treats you have on you, so check your bag and pockets for any food before you enter. Similarly, the macaques are invariably protective of their young or competitive with them. If they perceive you’re giving too much attention (and food, again) to them, they may be tempted to snarl and hiss at you, sometimes even attacking. Be careful.

Personally, I’m a big fan of streetside warungs where the food comes on plastic plates and there’s only one kind of beer – cold. But if you like to ease into your culinary adventures, Ubud has no shortage of delicious restaurants serving both traditional and western food. Australian Janet de Neefe has built a small empire of restaurants in Ubud since her arrival in 1974, and any one of them is well worth a visit. Try Indus or Casa Luna, both located on Jalan Raya and enjoy exemplary service, the freshest of ingredients and delicious Balinese cuisine.

Culture meets bliss

In addition to her restaurant ventures, Janet de Neefe has been offering cooking classes in Ubud since 1987. With a different class offered daily, visitors can choose anything from a beginner’s class to a market tour or the very special Sunday evening smoked duck twilight class. A cooking class with de Kneefe is a must-do on your stay in Bali, and will take you through until the early afternoon.

You might like to visit one of Ubud’s many spas to ‘unwind’. Although you’ll have no trouble finding one along the shopping strips of the town centre, for a little bit extra you can double your experience. I like Bali Botanica on Jalan Sanggingan. Tucked away in the folds of the jungle, clients can finish full body massages and scrubs by luxuriating in a rose petal bath looking out into a hot mess of greenery. Bookings are essential but your hotel can arrange this for you.

If you’re after somewhere stunning for dinner, you can’t go past Murni’s Warung. Ubud’s first real restaurant, Murni opened the warung in 1974 and has been operating it ever since. With four stunning levels overlooking an intimate river setting, the food is sensational and the service extremely charming. Take a stroll along the bridges after you’ve finished and wander back to your hotel with a full belly and a happy disposition. Alternatively, try local legend Naughty Nuri’s. It’s a must-do in Ubud, famed for its pork ribs and brutal martinis.

Adventure

Although Ubud has a reputation as a place of relaxation, there are actually a number of activities on offer for thrill seekers. Bali Adventure Tours operates different options for those wanting to really earn their massage. From white water rafting along the Ayung to downhill mountain cycling, river kayaking and a trip to the elephant sanctuary, there’s plenty available here to get your heart racing. Even those after just a smidge of exhilaration can head to the elephant sanctuary 16km north of Ubud at Desu Taro – although, I’m a big advocate of hiring a scooter and zipping your own way there through the winding back jungle roads.

An adventure tour will take around half a day, but you’ll probably want to relax a little after this. I suggest a nap and another massage followed by cocktail happy hour at Bar Luna. The latest feather in the cap for de Neefe, Bar Luna has only recently opened and is already attracting praise for its embrace of writers, performance and music in the small open setting. With cocktails a steal at two for one between half and 8pm, Bar Luna is a place to get nicely squiffy with some satisfying food options before heading out to a traditional Balinese dance performance. Ticket vendors sell along Jalan Raya all day, and there are a number of dances available. Ask around for advice on the best ones to see.

Winding up and saying goodbye

This is the time to do all the last-minute shopping you thought you’d get done throughout your four days here. There are some wonderful shops along Monkey Forest Rd where you can purchase beautiful batik sarongs, brooches and mementos of your stay. Just because you’ve been in Bali doesn’t mean you have to purchase some kind of hideous Bintang singlet – check out some of the stores selling paper goods and hand-made jewellery, the profits of which go to support small villages in the region.

If you have a few hours, the last stop you need to make for lunch is at Sari Organik. Located off the main road in Ubud in the middle of a rice paddy, it’s about a 20-minute walk through an Ubud you might not have seen yet. Instantly rural and picturesque, Sari Organik is an experimental organic farm in Ubud that practises fair trade and the promotion of local produce. Relax on a pile of cushions while drinking organic beer and eating the freshest of produce and reflect on the magical four days you’ve just enjoyed; squeeze every last second out before you have to jump in that car back to the airport, or your next location.

Kuta Bali, Indonesia Surf, Sunset, Sunbathe and Party

Kuta, the most accessible, lively and commercialized of Bali's southern beaches, is noted more for surf than for swimming and more for parties than for sunbathing. If you don't want to dance till dawn, Legian or Sanur offer quieter experiences, and Tuban is perfect for a family adventure. If golf is your game, the place to be is Nusa Dua. But for the "real" Bali, you'll need to venture beyond any of these resorts.

Getting There
Nearest major international airport: Denpasar

Airport transportation
Kuta is a mere 2 miles from the airport, but traffic can get heavy so allow plenty of leeway.

Direct Perama tourist minibuses run from Kuta to the city of Ubud, Bali's cultural center, and to more distant beaches such as Lovina. These tourist minibuses are generally more sensible than using the crowded local bemos (converted minivans); Perama are quicker, easier to navigate, and the price difference between the two is negligible.

Renting a car or motorbike is very inexpensive if you use local firms. However, driving on the winding mountain roads and in the crowded beach areas can be exhausting. So, let someone else do the work: For little more than the insurance you'd have to pay for yourself, you can hire a driver as well.

Timing
Unlike most of South East Asia, Bali has its (relatively) dry season between May and October, though it's popular at any time of year. Indeed, December and January are especially popular with Australian "summer" holiday-makers despite the humidity and probability of some downpours.

Lodging
Kuta has the world's first Hard Rock Hotel. At its fringes are several palatial hotels that maintain beautiful gardens designed to incorporate typical local features, notably 'Balinese split gateways.' In addition, there are also plenty of simple, backpacker places.

In every price range, hotels get pretty full in the high season (Christmas, July and August). At other times you can generally bargain prices down considerably. Prices vary significantly with the constantly fluctuating exchange rate.

Cuisine
Indonesian food is healthy and delicious, and uses a tremendous variety of fruits, spices, fish, coconut and peanuts. If terms like gado gado (crunchy salad with peanut sauce) and sambal (chili and coconut mix) are unfamiliar, try ordering a raistafel - a table full of different little dishes to sample. In addition to local food, Kuta restaurants can serve up just about any other international cuisine you crave and at surprisingly reasonable prices for relatively high quality.


While you are there
For cultural displays, it's difficult to beat the setting of Ubud's palaces and temples - much more appealing than seeing the same dances at a Kuta hotel. Ubud also has a delightful range of idyllic, candle-lit restaurants, some of which are part temple.

To fake that you've been there
Chuckle at the over-keen cyclists who you saw struggling up and down the island's steep terrain. Alternatively, casually mention that popping your rented mountain bike on the back of a bemo towards Bedegul meant you could freewheel downhill almost all the way back to Kuta, giving you all the more time for a few pre-prandial drinks.

Linking for a better vacation
Private Vacation Villas in Bali concentrates on giving accommodation options, but also has a good map and information on restaurants and activities.